Bay Area Hiker

Bad broom

2012-02-02T10:02:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I hiked Yolanda, one of my favorite Mount Tam trails. Broom, a non-native and invasive plant, has crept up the hillsides and nearly completely overtaken the grassy understory in the first 1/4 mile of the trail.

Here is a photo from 2008:

This is what the trail looks like now, in 2012:

Broom is a huge problem on this part of the mountain and MMWD is constantly organizing "broom pull" volunteer projects. If you love Mount Tam, consider volunteering! Maybe you have a group of friends or work colleagues who are willing to spend a few hours giving back? I don't see habitat projects for Yolanda scheduled this month, but there are several other broom pull projects planned. Or get a group together and offer your services to the greater good of lovely Yolanda Trail!

So dry

2012-01-17T11:07:00.000-08:00

We had a family hike at San Pedro Valley Park on MLK Jr. Day. Saw quite a few groups on the trail, each one clutching a trail map, so it looks like folks are exploring new places -- hooray for that!

I've certainly never hiked at San Pedro in January and experienced such dry, even dusty trails. The manzanitas were blooming as normal for this time of the year, but we didn't see any annual wildflowers budding or in bloom.

Rain is forecast for this week, so this coming weekend may be a great time for waterfall hikes. Here are some favorites:

Mount Diablo Donner Canyon

Big Basin Redwood State Park waterfall loop

Carson Falls

Alamere Falls

Cataract Falls

Mountain magic

2012-01-10T12:57:00.000-08:00

I had a real craving for Mount Tam, so off I went this morning. I reached the East Peak summit a few minutes after 9, my car breaking the monotony of the empty parking lot.

This morning was hazy so the views were not great, but I so enjoyed looping around Verna Dunshee Trail and then climbing the Plankwalk to the mountain top. I saw one giant manzanita fully in bloom, but there were no other annuals flowering.

I've never had the summit to myself and I think I may have an early morning habit forming -- it was so quiet I could hear the juncos grunting softly to each other as they picked through the dead oak leaves along the trail.

On the way back down the mountain I stopped at Rock Spring to gauge the wildflower season there. The grasslands seem almost painfully dry. I only saw one milkmaids blooming at the edge of the forest. Lots of bobcat poop though.

First flowers of the year (and hope for rain)

2012-01-05T09:07:00.000-08:00

Our bay area winter has been super dry so far, so maybe we have the fog to thank for early wildflowers on San Bruno Mountain. On January 4 I hiked the Summitt Loop and spotted half a dozen blooming milkmaids (and many more still budding) as well as 6 San Francisco wallflower.

Milkmaids are one of the most common winter flowers, and you're likely to see them along any grassy, coastal scrub, or chaparral trail. San Francisco Wallflower is quite rare, but I've seen it for the past few years at San Bruno, on the upper slopes of Montara Mountain, and Sweeney Ridge.

If you headed into the woods later this month and early February, you're likely to find hound's tongue, an annual with gorgeous blue flowers nodding off tall stems. Up on the high forests of Mount Tam, tiny calypso orchids should be brightening the woods later this month. Polly Geraci trail in Pulgas Ridge is a reliable source for the strange brown fetid adder's tongue -- a flower that can be hard to spot until you see one, then you seem to see a bunch!

Traditionally my family hikes San Pedro's Waterfall Loop around Christmas, but we were out of town this year. Looking forward to visiting the manzanitas there this month.

Hopefully we will get some rain soon and the waterfalls will start flowing. My favorite early season waterfall hike is Mount Diablo's Donner Canyon -- great flowers and gorgeous falls, but wait a few days after heavy rain to avoid the mud.

Looking forward to hearing from Bay Area hikers as you experience winter's delights!

Keep Portola and Castle Rock open

2011-12-07T09:59:00.000-08:00

Very happy to learn that the Portola and Castle Rock Foundation is working to keep those parks open. Castle Rock is one of my top five Bay Area hiking destinations, and I would hate to see it closed.

Your can help by donating to the foundation. Are you struggling to think of a holiday gift for one of those "already has everything" friends? Donate in his/her name! Get creative people!

Cross post: upcoming park closures

2011-12-03T10:48:00.000-08:00

http://60in60sf.blogspot.com/2011/11/upcoming-park-closures.html

Book Review: Best Hikes with Kids San Francisco Bay Area

2011-11-30T12:19:00.000-08:00

When you have a child, the way you look at hiking trails (and the rest of the world) changes. With an infant, you may hike in the manner of your child-free days with only slight modifications -- add diapers to the baby backpack and as long as one of the adults "got milk," you're good to go. As the years go by and your child develops speed and opinions (to put it kindly), you may need to think a potential hike through beforehand. That trail where you sometimes spotted rattlesnakes? The path with the dropoff that seems to sweep all the way to Big Basin? A perfectly gorgeous park with meadows of wildflowers to tempt tiny hands? Hmmmm.

Luckily, Laure Latham has written a great guide to hiking in the Bay Area with kids big and small. She has selected 100 hikes that span the landscape from the Sonoma Coast to the Santa Cruz Mountains. Each hike is shared through parent eyes, suggesting natural features that will excite kids, warning about areas where caution is required, and showcasing opportunities to easily educate kids about science and ecology. Clear maps from local cartographer Ben Pease make navigating a pleasure.

Her book would be a great holiday or shower present for any new parents who used to hike pre-kids, or those who are discovering hiking as a fantastic family activity.

Check our Latham's website Frogmom for more info on the book and local family-friendly activities.

Fact checkers needed!

2011-11-15T10:18:00.000-08:00

I'm working on the third edition of 60 Hikes within 60 Miles: San Francisco, and I need your help field checking hikes.

Here's how it works:

Go to http://60in60sf.blogspot.com/2011/08/tentative-hike-list-for-3rd-edition.html

Browse the list of hikes

Choose one or as many as you like

Hike them, following the directions on the webpages

Post comments on http://60in60sf.blogspot.com/2011/08/tentative-hike-list-for-3rd-edition.html

I'm looking for comments such as:

updates to driving directions

changes in access or entrance fees

changes in trail names

changes in trail conditions

new trails

removed trails

anything different than the text

anything good or bad in your hiking experiences

anything interesting you see or experience while hiking

Every hiker who field checks a hike and posts a comment will receive thanks in print in the book. The twenty most useful comments (judged by me) will earn their owners a free copy of the third edition.

Thank you for your help -- your comments have shaped my website and books and I appreciate you!

Following my own advice

2011-09-06T10:07:00.000-07:00

When I was lucky enough to have a good hunk of free time one day last week, I poked around my site for a hike to update. It was hot and I had to be home in mid-afternoon, so I wanted something mostly shaded and not too far from home. I settled on Los Trancos Open Space Preserve, where according to my notes, I last hiked in 2001. Yow!

Although I have hiked at Los Trancos at least half a dozen times, it had been so long (or perhaps my brain just doesn't retain as much these days) that I had to print out the description from BAHiker and follow the suggested hike. I found only one small update was needed; the trails remain in fantastic shape, there are no new trails, and nothing has been renamed. Since my last visit a trail connection from Los Trancos to Foothills Park opened, allowing folks hiking the Bay Area Ridge Trail to trek through Foothills, which is otherwise open only to Palo Alto residents. I'll get there one of these days...

Los Trancos is quite small compared to neighboring preserves Monte Bello, Skyline Ridge, and Russian Ridge, but LT packs a great trail system into 274 acres. The most popular trail is the San Andreas Fault Trail, which seems popular with folks from out of the area -- last week the parking lot had more out-of-state cars than local ones. Hikers can follow a self-guided earthquake tour through the easy loop, but I usually prefer to head deeper into the preserve for more peace and quiet (and a longer hike).

Nothing exciting to report about the hike with one exception: within my hike's first minute I came across a rattlesnake stretched across the trail. At least it wasn't coiled!

Walking and birding at Heron's Head Park

2011-04-30T09:41:00.000-07:00

There's an old joke about San Francisco real estate, that land here is so expensive because they're not making any more of it. Our small city's shoreline has been altered by landfill and subsequent development in the past, but in more contemporary times the emphasis has been on coastal conservation rather than fill and build. What is now called Heron's Head Park is one of the last bits of artificially made city land. This small peninsula was born in the early 1970s, as part of a Port of San Francisco shipping terminal project that fizzled. The land remained, abandoned, until the late 1990s, when environmental groups cleaned up the site and opened it as Heron's Head Park. At first glance it's a strange location for bird watching -- Port of San Francisco cargo terminals loom directly to the north, and the old Hunter's Point Power plant (now being dismantled) wheezed just to the southwest. But this little scrappy spit of land is surrounded by water on three sides, with small patches of salt marsh protected on the south part of the park, and although this man-made habitat fails to resemble any of the other pristine natural bay area shorelines, it attracts a huge variety of waterfowl, shorebirds, and wading birds, as well as songbirds, owls, hummingbirds, and more.

The trail runs less than a mile before it dead-ends at the bay, and the grade is perfectly flat, making this a great choice for a family walk with the very young or very old. It's also an exceptional choice for beginning birdwatchers -- bring binoculars and a field guide!

Read more about Heron's Head on Bay Area Hiker.

Pondering the Bay Area chipmunk

2010-09-23T10:03:00.000-07:00

A little over a year ago while hiking Simmons Trail on Mt. Tam (best accessed from the Rock Spring trailhead), I noticed a few chipmunks scampering around. Using just our trusty little family camera (a Panasonic DMC-FX37) I managed to get a one decent photo from a few feet away. I didn't think much about it then, but I came across the photo a few days ago and was struck by the little chipmunk's beauty. Then I wondered what kind of chipmunk it was.

After a few hours of internet and book research, I discovered we don't have many chipmunks in the Bay Area. Merriam's chipmunk lives in southern and central California; you have a chance of seeing them in the Bay Area only in coastal counties south of the Golden Gate. Yellow-cheeked chipmunks are found on the northern coast, but their range ends in near Freestone in Somona County. That leaves one other contender to be my Tam cutie: Tamias sonomae, Sonoma chipmunk, with a California range from the northern San Francisco Bay Area north to Siskiyou County.

I thought about chipmunks a bit, and realized I haven't seen very many of them while hiking; so few that I remember the occasions: one on the trail at Purisima Creek Redwoods, one on Bear Valley Trail at Point Reyes, and now a few scrambling around the chaparral on Mount Tam. So I suppose I've seen one Merriam's and two Sonomas. Mystery solved!

Bay Area Hiker on Facebook

2010-09-03T12:37:00.001-07:00

I've set up a Bay Area Hiker page on Facebook, from which you can follow along on some of my adventures, as well as post your own hiking photos.

I realize Facebook is not for everyone (even our nearly-5-year-old finds it irritating) but some of you may find it a useful way to share your photos.

Aggressive coyotes at Arastradero

2010-06-15T15:03:00.000-07:00

Coyotes, most likely protecting pups, have reportedly acted aggressively towards dogs at Pearson-Arastradero Preserve in Palo Alto. Palo Alto Open Space has temporarily closed Woodland Star, Bay Laurel, Ohlone and part of the de Anza trails to dogs. The district reports no horses or hikers have been threatened.

Here are some tips from Palo Alto about coyotes and safety:

"• Be aware that coyotes are more active in the spring, when feeding and protecting their young

• Do Not attempt to approach the animal

• Do Not try to feed or attempt to tame the animal

• Do Keep children close to you

• If followed, make loud noises. If this fails, throw rocks.

• Fight back if attacked"

View map of closures here.
Read about Arastradero hiking trails here.

Project Restore on Mount Tamalpais

2010-06-15T13:34:00.000-07:00

The causal hiker might not realize it, but the trails on Mount Tamalpais are managed by four separate agencies: California State Parks, Marin Municipal Water District, Golden Gate National Recreation Area, and Marin County Open Space. Of the three, MMWD has the most acreage -- nearly the entire north slope of the mountain.

MMWD maintains nearly 90 miles of trails, with most recreation use concentrated around Bon Tempe, Lake Lagunitas, and Phoenix Lake. The watershed trails stretching from the those lakes uphill to East Ridgecrest and Tam's three peaks are some of the mountain's loneliest, traversing rugged terrain, steep, heavily-forested hillsides, and crossing some vague junctions with "casual" trails. Since last year MMWD has been working to close old unsafe "unofficial" trails and improve signage.

This year Project Restore is "undertaking restoration work in two locations: (1) along the Temelpa Trail below the Verna Dunshee Trail (East Peak Mt. Tamalpais), and (2) in the vicinity of the Cross-Country Boys Trail, Lower Northside Trail and Lagunitas-Rock Spring Rd below Rifle Camp. Work at the latter location will also include improved trail connections and signage to help people identify official trails and minimize the likelihood of people getting lost. Unofficial trails in this area are notorious for misleading hikers resulting in many of the district's search and rescue efforts."

While I've never hiked Temelpa, I've tramped around the trails described above (#2) and vigorously agree that those trails need improved signage. A good map is essential, but it is still very easily to get disoriented, since the tree cover is dense and some junctions are not signed. I look forward to hiking one of my favorite Tam routes next year -- I'll be on the lookout for the improved signs!

Read about volunteering for Project Restore here.
(Photo is junction of Willow and High Marsh trails)

Art in the Presidio

2010-06-13T12:07:00.000-07:00

I'm loving San Francisco's Presidio these days: new trails and overlooks, an improved campground, and even art!

The Presidio Habitats Exhibition, which runs through May 15, 2011, is described as "A Site-Based Art Exhibition Celebrating Presidio Nature and Wildlife."

If you go to the Presidio to check out the art, consider making a day of it: go for a hike (or two), have a picnic at the beach, or take part in a guided adventure where you can learn about local butterflies (see the Habitats Exhibition page for butterfly info). And look for Andy Goldsworthy's "Spire," near Inspiration Point.

The Presidio is a great, easy-to-reach destination; enjoy nature in the city.

A new multi-use trail grows in Napa?

2010-06-13T11:41:00.000-07:00

It likely won't be of much interest to hikers, but the Napa County Transportation and Planning Agency has started planning a multi-use path from American Canyon to Calistoga. The "Vine Trail" will follow along Highway 29 and the Wine Train tracks, so it will be noisy and in the summer HOT! But a great option for casual cyclists, especially during Napa Valley's busy season, when traffic on 29 crawls.

Dias Ridge Trail revamped

2010-06-13T11:17:00.000-07:00

Once early in my bay area hiking career, I tried to find the western end of Dias Ridge Trail, a fire road which drops from Shoreline Highway to Muir Beach. I was unsuccessful so I went on to explore some of the many other options nearby, including Muir Woods, Mount Tamalpais, and other GGNRA trails through the Marin Headlands.

But now I have a reason to go back and try again: Dias Ridge Trail has been rebuilt. Just over 3 miles, the fire road is an important connector for several area medium to long hikes. String it together with Redwood Creek Trail and Miwok Trail for a 6 mile loop, or jump across Shoreline Highway on Miwok into the headlands and tramp around all day.

Check the trail map here.
Muir Beach is a good trailhead; it's about 1/4 mile to Dias Ridge Trail and provides plenty of parking, plus beach access and food at the Pelican Inn.

East Bay Hills Through-Hike

2010-05-29T12:07:00.000-07:00

This September, the third annual "5 Day Thru Hike" offers the opportunity to hike and camp over 35 miles through East Bay parks. Organized by the Bay Area Ridge Trail, the event will guide hikers through a series of parks, starting in Fernandez Ranch in Martinez and ending at Lake Chabot. In between they'll hike through Sobrante Ridge, Kennedy Grove, Wildcat, Sibley, Huckleberry, and Redwood.

Campsites (you provide your tent and sleeping bag), gear shuttling, and meals are included in the $50 a day fee (with a discount if you sign up for all 5 days). This is a bargain for the rare chance to camp at Joaquin Miller and Tilden parks while having someone cook your food, carry your stuff, set-up and take down camp, all for a good cause. Read more here.

I hope other management agencies will consider similar fundraising events. Imagine a 5 day camp and hike trek through the Midpeninsula Regional Open Space District lands, Point Reyes, Henry Coe....

CSP's new website aids campers and hikers

2010-05-29T10:16:00.000-07:00

I'm not sure where the money came from, but California State Parks has launched a new website, Find Recreation, to assist hikers and campers searching for California trails, parks, and/or campgrounds.

My favorite feature is the satellite view. Wondering what the Bullfrog Campground at Austin Creek State Recreation Area looks like? Click the campground option on the Google map, then navigate to the park, zoom in, and there it is. With the satellite view, you can easily see if a campground is shaded, exposed, close to a busy road, even sometimes, how far apart the sites are. If you zoom down "into" a park, a window pops up with management agency information; click though to go to the parks website for more info. There's also a driving/transit directions feature.

This is a California State Parks website but information is also displayed for campgrounds, parks, and trails outside of the state park system. You can compare campgrounds managed by the National Park Service, California State Parks, as well as regional park districts and public utilities. This feature is so great for camping trip planning: make a list of campgrounds that sound promising, then in just minutes you can explore all throughout the state.

Some kinks: if you zoom in as far as the system allows, the satellite resolution is sometimes quite blurry, I couldn't get the 3D Earth View to work at all, and as far as I can figure you can't search for specific destinations within the Find Recreation site (the search box pops you out to the main CSP site; the search feature only allows you to search for campgrounds, trails, and parks within x miles), but I'm still thrilled with this site.

One big thing missing: campground reservation info! Once you locate a campground, it would be great to link to the reservation site, rather than navigating through the management agency. I hope that CSP will add that in the future.

West Marin towns get tough on illegal parking

2010-05-17T10:02:00.000-07:00

If you're headed to Stinson Beach, Bolinas, or Muir Beach this summer, be sure to park legally. Parking ticket fees are scheduled to jump up to $99. No parking signs will be enforced in those towns as well as on Highway 1 and Panoramic Highway. Read the story here.

These town are notoriously hard places to park. There are few options for public transportation to the southwestern Marin coast, but you can take West Marin Stagecoach from Marin City to Stinson and Bolinas. Or pay the parking fee at Pantoll and hike to Stinson! Cheaper than a $99 parking fee and a great hike to boot.

City wildlife

2010-05-15T08:20:00.000-07:00

I'm hearing reports that 4 baby coyotes have been born in San Francisco. I don't know what the public response will be; should be interesting. I haven't been able to confirm the news -- will try to check it out next week.

PS: They are not in the Presidio or Golden Gate Park.

Urban Forest Map

2010-05-12T09:50:00.000-07:00

I came across this website a few weeks ago. In their own words: "the Urban Forest Map is a collaboration of government, nonprofits, businesses and you to map every tree in San Francisco. The information we gather will help urban foresters and city planners to better manage trees in specific areas, track and combat tree pests and diseases, and plan future tree plantings."

I've been thinking about this project -- in what way is it most useful? It's fun to zoom around the city and look at unfamiliar trees, and it's a great planning tool for urban tree planters. I would love to see a merge of Urban Forest Map and Neighborhood Fruit! Or a fruit tree/food foraging map for bay area public parks, open spaces, and preserves (now that I really like).

What's your favorite San Francisco tree? I am fond of this (standing but perhaps no longer living) eucalyptus on Mount Davidson.

Parking fees coming to Palo Alto preserves

2010-05-12T09:22:00.000-07:00

Budget troubles have not escaped the peninsula: Palo Alto has proposed $5 parking fees at Foothill and Pearson/Arastradero preserves. Foothill restricts access to Palo Alto residents only; it will be interesting to hear the reaction from the city.

$5 is a steep price to pay for access to Arastradero. I wonder if cyclists seeking to avoid the fee will park in adjacent neighborhoods and ride into the preserve.

Visit Arastradero now for free while you can!

6/19/10 UPDATE: according to news reports the City of Palo Alto has decided not to impose parking fees. Community input favored keeping the parks free. Yea!

A San Pablo Bay land battle

2010-05-07T14:06:00.000-07:00

Most folks drive through the fringes of the San Pablo Bay National Wildlife Refuge without even realizing it -- CA 37 (aka Sears Point Road) runs through the southern part of this Sonoma County refuge. There are few public access points and the dizzying speed of traffic on CA 37 hardly encourages drivers to slow down and look for a trailhead.

SPBNWR is managed by the federal government, which is currently engaged in a cleanup at Skaggs Island, a former naval reservation situated between CA37 and CA121 (Sonoma Highway). Part of their plan is to purchase a 1,100 acre hay farm which an article in the SF Chronicle claims occupies 1/4 of Skaggs Island. The feds say the farm (and the rest of Skaggs Island) should be restored to wetlands; the farmer says the land is his family heritage, and he just doesn't think the monetary compensation is great enough. But then he is quoted as saying he wishes to pass the farm to his son, so who knows if he really wants to sell. Until this situation is resolved, Skaggs Island will remain dry.

These wetlands of San Pablo Bay are perhaps best suited to exploration by boat -- launch from the Vallejo public marina near Brinkmans Marine or at Port Sonoma near the Petaluma River and wind your way through the sloughs teaming with wildlife. To get a taste of the wildlife refuge on foot (access for hikers is quite limited) check out Lower Tubbs Island, at the southern tip of the refuge. Choose a cool day (there is no shade) and be sure to bring binoculars for bird watching. It's an 8 mile totally flat hike with outstanding views of Mount Diablo and Mount Tamalpais, and offers a rare opportunity to stand right on the (here pristine) northern shore of San Pablo Bay. When I hiked here I saw many birds, a hawk eating a jackrabbit, snakes, and butterflies. And not one other hiker!

Mission blue butterflies return to SF

2010-05-07T13:29:00.000-07:00

Lovely story in today's SF Chronicle about the successful reintroduction of endangered mission blue butterflies to San Francisco's Twin Peaks.

From personal experience there are a lot of "blue" butterflies and most of them are hard to identify. I've often spotted these small butterflies perched on plants with their wings stubbornly closed; in more than 10 years of trying I've only gotten a few semi-decent photos of blues with their wings open. Even with a great photo they are difficult to identify; the crucial markings can be quite subtle. In some cases you would need to get a very good look at the butterfly open and closed to differentiate.

If you care to go mission blue butterfly hunting (or like to see other more common butterflies including swallowtails and painted ladies), the best place is San Bruno Mountain, and this is the premier time of year for a hike there -- try the Summit Loop on a sunny day. Loads of wildflowers to see, and a chance to polish your butterfly ID skills. "Butterflies through Binoculars: the West" is a really helpful guide. Don't forget your camera!

SF's only campground, $4 million later

2010-05-03T14:57:00.000-07:00

The Presidio's (and city's) only campground has just reopened after extensive renovations. When I visited Rob Hill Campground 2 years ago, it looked like this -- a bare-bones blank spot with no frills and icky amenities. I hope to get back soon for an in-person look at the changes; in the meantime read about the updates here.

The campground is in the western part of the Presidio, on a wooded hill not far from Baker Beach. It's hardly remote (you can see and hear nearby Washington Boulevard), but the campground offers city kids the opportunity to sleep under the stars (or fog).

Before you rush out with your tent in hand, note that Rob Hill is a group campsite, only available by advance reservation (Presidio Trust Special Events Office at 415-561-5444).

Two Sundays at Milgra Ridge

2010-05-02T15:51:00.001-07:00

Milagra Ridge, just a few miles south of San Francisco, is a favorite place for quick and easy hikes. These last two weeks our family has visited Milagra on a hike/bike plan. My husband and son ride their bikes on the paved trail, and I hike a little on the pavement and the rest on the dirt trails.

On these visits the wildflowers have been disappointing. There are many small patches of blue-eyed grass just past their peak, some paintbrush, lupines, cow parsnip, scorpion weed, owl clover, and poppies, but not much else. Definitely not worth a special visit if you're trying to make the most of wildflower season.

I did see this unfamiliar plant near the old battery area, right on the side of the steps. Look familiar to anyone?

Read more about Milagra Ridge here.

Introducing myself to Mt. Vision

2010-04-14T13:50:00.000-07:00

Thanks to a generous gift from my inlaws I spent Sunday night by myself in a Point Reyes cabin. I had intended to hike nice long treks Sunday afternoon and Monday morning, but the rains were so heavy that I only achieved short hikes both days. During a break in the storms I hiked 2 miles at Tomales Point and about 1 1/2 miles up on Mount Vision/Point Reyes Hill.

Tomales Point Trail was soggy and the surrounding hillsides were very lush and green. Wildflowers which usually carpet the grassland in mid to late April were almost completely absent. No great patches of goldenfields near the Pierce Point Road overlook or along the trail near Windy Gap. Maybe they will pop up if it ever stops raining, or maybe this is just not going to be a good year for wildflowers at Point Reyes. I didn't get to Chimney Rock, the other usual flower haunt -- anyone else been there in the past week or so?

I'd never been on Mt. Vision Road or hiked around Point Reyes Hill before and I was happy to explore this area (read a bit about the 1995 Mt. Vision fire here) . Mt. Vision Road is a one-lane dead-end lane that winds uphill from Sir Francis Drake, ascending through gorgeous pine woods and coastal scrub. The (accessible) road ends at a gated large dirt parking pullout; from there hikers or cyclists can continue uphill on pavement to a hill topped with an FAA beacon. The paved road/trail ends at the FAA site, then drops to the south on a narrow path (as Inverness Ridge Trail). Combining Inverness Ridge Trail with Drake's View Trail, Muddy Hollow Road, and Bucklin Trail looks like a great nearly 8 mile mile dayhike, with a drop of over 1000 feet to be regained ascending back to the trailhead (a slight variation of this loop that starts from the Bayview trailhead on Limantour Road could ease the grunt since the last 2 miles of the loop back to the parking area is downhill). On Monday I only made it a bit past the FAA beacon, but on the hike I admired the views both to the east and west. Obviously the ridge gets a ton of fog moisture -- check out the lichen on top of lichen (or is the dark green stuff moss?) growing on coyote brush.

Even if you don't care to hike the area, Mt. Vision Road is a great short drive, with great views along the road and from a parking pullout where you can stop and enjoy the vista, encompassing the beaches off to the west, Chimney Rock and lighthouse area, as well as Drakes Estero.

I look forward to returning!

Tom Stienstra busted for growing/selling weed!

2010-04-03T15:29:00.000-07:00

http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5g0i-ztr-SNvtFkgSQTYu38_fBqgQD9ER7ERO0

Two missing hikers (and one found)

2010-01-27T14:26:00.001-08:00

A strange coincidence -- in the past two weeks, two women have gone missing from two different Point Reyes trailheads -- Tomales Point and North Beach. From all accounts, both women were very familiar with the local terrain and trails. Were they both swept to sea? It's pretty doubtful that the two women will be found alive, since it seems so unlikely they are lost.

Last July a hiker went missing at El Corte de Madera Creek Redwoods Open Space Preserve. His remains were found this past week.

Remember, tell someone when and where you are going hiking. Carrying a cell phone is not enough of a safety net.

Upcoming Mount Tam watershed volunteer days

2009-12-29T11:38:00.000-08:00

The following info is from MMWD's volunteer coordinator -- they have a bunch of fun events coming up. Volunteering is great exercise, educational, and fun! Check it out (photo from the Pine Point area of Bon Tempe):
******
(begin press release)
Embrace the new year by participating in a fun, invigorating, outdoor event on Mt Tamalpais. Volunteers work with MMWD to restore habitat, improve trails, educate the public or gain service learning credits for school, all while exploring beautiful Mt Tam. Individuals are welcome to drop in; groups of ten or more should pre-register.

Trail Crew
Saturday, January 9, 2010 from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Volunteers are needed for tread work and erosion control on Vic Haun Trail above Mill Valley. We will meet at 9 a.m. at Gravity Car Road by Throckmorton Fire Station, 816 Panoramic Hwy, Mill Valley.

Habitat Restoration and Hike on Lagunitas Creek
Saturday, January 9, 2010 from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Improve salmon habitat by restoring native plant populations with MMWD's community partner SPAWN (Salmon Protection and Watershed Network). This event is part of the districts Gateway project, funded by the State Coastal Conservancy and the California Resources Agency's River Parkways program. After the lunch break, volunteers are invited to hike with naturalists to learn more about Lagunitas Creek. Please meet at 8:45 a.m. at the Leo T. Cronin Fish Viewing Area at Shafter Bridge on Sir Francis Drake Blvd. in West Marin before Samuel P. Taylor Park.

Habitat Restoration at Bon Tempe Lake
Saturday, January 16, 2010 from 9 a.m. to Noon
Invasive species removal at Pine Point on the northern shoreline of Bon Tempe. We will meet at Lagunitas Picnic Area at 9:00 a.m. Lagunitas Picnic Area is at the end of Sky Oaks Road, off Bolinas Road in Fairfax.

Help Protect Native Frogs and Turtles on Mt. Tam
Were looking for volunteers who can dedicate time from March through June to monitor two vulnerable animal species. Training to become a Frog Docent will be on February 27 and Turtle Observer training will be on March 13. After training, contribute time on your own schedule. More information coming soon...

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Save these dates!
Upcoming Trail Days: February 6, March 6
Upcoming Habitat Restoration Days: February 20, March 20

More details about MMWD's Volunteer Program can be found here: http://www.marinwater.org/controller?action=menuclick&id=253.

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Dress for changing weather, wear work shoes, bring your lunch, a water bottle and your friends! We provide snacks, water, instruction and inspiration.

Please note that all events are subject to cancellation due to heavy rain. Please call (415) 945-1128 the morning of the event. It could be raining on Mt. Tam. but sunny 10 miles away or vice versa!

Thank you for your participation.

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Suzanne Whelan
Volunteer Coordinator
Sky Oaks Watershed Headquarters
Marin Municipal Water District
415-945-1128
volunteerprogram@marinwater.org

Pygmy nuthatches

2009-12-27T12:27:00.001-08:00

We had several pygmy nuthatches visit our SF backyard Christmas day. These small birds are so beautiful -- a nice Christmas surprise.

Now if I could only get photos of the bushtits and that solitary Townsend's warbler, my backyard photo catalogue would be up to date.

Manzanitas at San Pedro Valley Park

2009-12-26T12:47:00.001-08:00

A hike at San Pedro Valley Park is a Christmas tradition for our family. It's a nice break from the seasonal bustle and the manzanitas in bloom are so cheerful when spring seems so far away. This year on Christmas Eve many manzanitas were in full bloom, some were already faded and setting fruit, and others were still in bud. If we get winter storms the next few weeks the manzanita flowers will likely get washed off the plants, but rain allows San Pedro's 3-tier waterfall to fill and very heavy rain could even permit spawning salmon to swim upstream into Brooks Creek.

There's always something to enjoy at San Pedro, one of my favorite local parks.

Read more here: http://www.bahiker.com/southbayhikes/sanpedro.html

Jenner Headlands preserved

2009-12-23T13:30:00.000-08:00

On December 17, 2009 Sonoma Land Trust purchased 5,630 acres of land just north of the town of Jenner, on the Sonoma coast. This acreage, north of the Russian River and Sonoma Coast State Park, will open to public access via guided hikes in 2010.

Read more about the acquisition on the Sonoma Land Trust website and on SFGate.

Sierra Club Trails website

2009-12-23T11:27:00.000-08:00

Back in July the Sierra Club launched their "social network for outdoor enthusiasts." I wanted to give it some time to get going (it is still in BETA), and just a few months later, I'd say the site is off to a good start.

Hikers can post trail descriptions and updates can be added by subsequent visitors. Links to maps and websites as well as Google maps-based trailhead directions and trail photos are often included. Here in the bay area we have a plethora of on-line hiking information for our immediate area and beyond, so I don't know how useful bay area hikers will find the trail descriptions. Perhaps the best attributes of the site are the ability to comment on trail conditions and find information about out-of-state locations where on-line information is lacking (do places like this still exist?).

Anyway, check it out at http://trails.sierraclub.org/index.html

Missing hikers on Tam

2009-12-21T11:38:00.000-08:00

From the Marin IJ:

"A six-hour search for a missing hiker on Mount Tamalpais ended Saturday night when a Napa man left the woods above Mill Valley - and hailed a cab.

Sean Dodd, 40, of Napa was reported missing at 1:30 p.m. Saturday near the railroad grade of the Corte Madera trail above Mill Valley. More than 39 search and rescue personnel - including five sheriff's deputies, five rangers from four different agencies, six firefighters from two departments and three dog teams - spent six hours combing the mountain before locating Dodd about 7:30 p.m.

'He was ultimately able to make his way down to surface streets, where he summoned a taxi to deliver him back to his car,' said Michael St. John, search and rescue coordinator for the Mill Valley Fire Department. 'There he encountered our incident personnel.'

Search and rescue teams were also looking for a group of 12 hikers from the East Bay who were additionally reported missing on Mount Tamalpais. That group was also able to find its way out of the woods and contact rescue personnel, St. John said.

'One of the things that was a common denominator in both of these incidents was the fact that it's getting dark earlier - we're right at the solstice, and it's pretty dark by 5 p.m.,' St. John said. 'We encourage people to plan accordingly, to make sure they've completed their hike before it gets dark and to bring a map and flashlight along. The most important thing is to tell people where they are going.'

Neither the Marin County Search and Rescue Team nor its member agencies charge groups or individuals for the cost of a rescue, St. John said.

'We feel charging would discourage people from seeking help,' he said."

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Here's a photo near the junction of Corte Madera Trail and Old Railroad Grade. Corte Madera Trail is a narrow path less than 1 mile long, that connects Old Railroad Grade and Hoo-Koo-E-Koo Trail. No details about the group of 12 from the East Bay; wonder where they were lost?

Read about this area of Tam here: http://www.bahiker.com/northbayhikes/blithe.html

Franciscan manzanita found in Presidio

2009-12-21T10:07:00.000-08:00

We are lucky a botanist spotted this!

From the SF Chronicle 12/14/09:
"A San Francisco native plant that was believed to be extinct has been discovered near the Golden Gate Bridge.

The last, wild Franciscan Manzanita was believed to have perished in the 1940s when the city cemeteries where it grew were moved south to allow for neighborhood expansion.

But when construction crews recently cleared eucalyptus trees in the city's Presidio area, it exposed the only specimen known to exist in the wild.

Botanist Daniel Gluesenkamp spotted the manzanita shrub in the Presidio, a federal park overseen by the National Park Service.

Gluesenkamp reportedly spotted the rare shrub, which he was familiar with through his scientific work, as he drove from the Golden Gate Bridge into the Presidio. He later visited the site to confirm his sighting — the first in nearly 70 years.

'Finding this wild plant under our noses gives us a fantastic opportunity to protect this indigenous plant and to restore it,' said Brent Plater, executive director of the Wild Equity Institute.

Plater and other environmental groups filed a petition with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to protect the plant under the Endangered Species Act.

Plater said he did not expect the plant's discovery to affect the nearly $1.5 billion replacement of Doyle Drive, the south access road to the Golden Gate Bridge."

Day use fees on the rise

2009-11-14T10:42:00.000-08:00

When I was up on Mount Tam this week for a hike I noticed a sign announcing forthcoming fee areas. Both Rock Spring and Mountain Home trailheads will have day use fees in the future. The sign didn't say how much or when the fees would start. The current Tam day use fee is $8. I wonder if CSP will eliminate the tiny free parking pullout on Pantoll just off Panoramic? When the new fees are implemented would that be the only free legal parking in the upper reaches of the mountain? Can you park on West Ridgecrest?

Other state parks in the bay area have increased day use fees to $10. Read about the new fees here. California State Parks advocacy groups are proposing a vehicle fee to help fund our beleaguered parks -- not sure how that will go over with the general public in this wretched economy.

Since I live in San Francisco, I'll be heading south to the Santa Cruz Mountains for hikes more often -- no bridge toll and loads of free day use at the Midpeninsula Regional Open Space Preserves. Some of my favorites are Purisima Creek, Monte Bello, Skyline Ridge, and Russian Ridge. But I have to get my Tam fixes every couple of months, so I'll be back, I'll just have to remember to keep my wallet full.

Dead hiker found at Santa Teresa CP

2009-06-29T14:46:00.000-07:00

http://www.nbcbayarea.com/news/local/Mountain-Biker-Finds-Dead-Woman-in-San-Jose-Park.html

Transit and Trails website

2009-06-20T10:34:00.000-07:00

The Bay Area Open Space Council has released a BETA version of a new website designed to help hikers (and campers and cyclists) easily find local trailheads and campgrounds. A scalable Google map makes the site easy to navigate. You can also plan your trips on public transportation (my test case was a random spot in southern Marin to Skyline Wilderness in Napa -- pick your own starting and ending spot -- it's great fun!) .

It is still BETA -- I was just poking around and saw an icon in the wrong place here and there, but what a great resource for bay area hikers and folks from out of town planning hiking/camping adventures.

Transit and Trails
Photo from Skyline Wilderness Park in Napa -- reachable by public transit!

BART's upcoming anniversary

2009-06-20T09:03:00.000-07:00

In early September the Bay Area Ridge Trail celebrates 20 years of trails by inviting hikers to a 5-day trek from Castro Valley to Martinez.

This may be as close to European hut-to-hut hiking as you can get in the Bay Area -- gear will be hauled from campsite to campsite and meals are included. The cost is only $50 a day, and hikers can do the whole 5 days or just one (as space allows -- those doing the whole thing get priority). There's only space for 75 hikers, so sign up early.

Read more here, and happy anniversary Bay Area Ridge Trail!

(I don't know the actual route for the hike, but here's a photo from the BART/ Wildcat Canyon Regional Park.)

Different approaches to the state park budget crisis

2009-05-30T09:32:00.000-07:00

Lots of outdoorsy folks have been bemoaning the proposed state parks closures. The plan would shut all but 59 California state parks, including virtually every state park in the bay area, including Big Basin, Henry Coe, Mount Tamalpais, Tomales Bay, and Mount Diablo. The only bay area state parks which would remain open are ones operated by local agencies, like San Bruno Mountain, Crown State Beach, and Pacifica State Beach.

The plan creates a dismal prospect for some favorite outdoor activities throughout the state: no autumn camping at Salt Point State Point, no late winter hiking at Big Basin, Mount Diablo, Henry Coe, no redwood strolling at Armstrong Redwoods or Samuel P. Taylor, no soaking in the hot pool at Grover hot springs... the depressing list goes on and on.

The proposed closures are devastating for outdoor enthusiasts and folks who work at the state parks. Could there be different solutions to the problem?

This got me thinking about how the state fails to collect use fees. Time after time I see unstaffed parking lots at state park trailheads where at least 2/3rds of the vehicles have not self-registered and paid the use fee. What if these trailheads and parking lots were staffed? Pay one person to sit in an entrance kiosk for 6-8 hours a day -- the cost would be what, $100? At destinations with plenty of high traffic day use, fee collection would pay for itself, and then some, in as little as 30 minutes. Consider the parking lot at Tam's East Peak, where the use fee is $6. I would estimate that during tourist season, a few hundred vehicles visit this trailhead, most for just an hour or so. Even estimating conservatively, 400 x $6 = $2400. A day. Some of that money would need to go to daily maintenance of trailhead facilities, and I'm sure there are other costs associated with collecting and transporting fees, but the remainder could pay some park salaries.

Parks with advocacy groups might even be able to collect day use fees with the use of volunteers. Docents of the bay area unite!

Of course, not every park has high day-use visitation. Since a good deal of California has mild weather 12 months a year, some state parks (particularly those on the coast) are year-round camping destinations. Would campers be willing to pay an additional recession-surcharge of $10 (or more) per night? I would! It would be worth it to me to keep the campgrounds open.

I'm sure my ideas aren't fully thought out; surely someone out there who completely understands state parks economics could come up with something better. I have to hope there are other creative plans out there for keeping the parks open. Rather than simply protesting the closures, let's come up with some solutions!

The cruelest month?

2009-05-20T14:14:00.000-07:00

T.S. Eliot wrote "April is the cruelest month," but in our SF neighborhood, May has been a harsh and deadly time for this year's barely-fledged sparrows and finches. For a few consecutive days I found sparrow wings (and a head) in the garden, which I figured had become a regular meal stop for a sharp-shinned or Cooper's hawk. Then 2 days ago I was out walking with our son and saw a scrub jay attacking and carrying off a young house sparrow, right on the sidewalk! I've seen scrub jays eating acorns in oak woodlands and food from our bird feeder, but I didn't realize they are omnivores. Nature is not always pretty, even (especially?) in the city.

La Honda Creek OSP master plan

2009-05-18T14:08:00.000-07:00

I'm currently a lapsed outdoor volunteer. Before I became a mom I spent plenty of weekends volunteering at peninsula open space preserves. I did all kinds of projects: fence building, seed collecting, invasive plant removal, trail repair, and twice, trail building. The later was no doubt the most complicated; full days of closely supervising digging, scraping, filling, retaining, packing, and more.

But I never thought too much about all the work that led to the trail building until I got word that the Midpeninsula Regional Open Space District was preparing a master trail plan for La Honda Creek Open Space Preserve. This little-known preserve stretches from Skyline Boulevard (just south of El Corte de Madera Open Space Preserve) southwest to a boundary at Highway 84, past the town of La Honda. The preserve's best known feature is the "big red barn" right along Highway 84, but the barn and that part of the preserve are closed to the public. The only accessible part of La Honda Creek OSP is in the northern section of the preserve (with a trailhead at the end of Allen Road), and that area requires a permit to explore.

As indicated in the master trail plan, MROSD considers La Honda Creek OSP a "gateway to the San Mateo coast," and is considering miles of new trails (see the pdf) and several new trailheads for the preserve.

This is all very exciting, especially if like me, you've hiked the upper part of La Honda (this photo is from a 2001 hike) and have been lucky enough to get a glimpse of the area around the Red Barn (volunteering does have its perks!). There aren't many trails on the west slope of the Santa Cruz Mountains, and La Honda Creek has a great deal of variety, with some massive Doug firs, amazing ocean views, and beautiful grassland.

Also incredible is the work that goes into preparing a master plan. In pdf format the master plan is 402 pages long. Staff have considered everything: water resources, sensitive biological resources, regional trail connections, access for disabled visitors, and on and on.

I look forward to the implementation of the La Honda Creek Open Space Preserve master plan -- there's something here for just about everyone. Now if I could just get our 3 year old son Jack trained on a weed wrench, so I could return to pulling broom on weekends....

Federal money coming soon to bay area parks

2009-05-07T14:34:00.000-07:00

According to the SF Chronicle, the recent American Recovery and Reinvestment Act will channel millions of dollars to several bay area national parks. Projects targeted for funding include rerouting of the Dias Ridge Trail in the Marin Headlands, structural upgrading in Muir Woods, demolition of old buildings at Fort Barry, and the construction of trails, overlooks and exhibits at the new Giacomini wetlands.

One last local item: campground rehabilitation at Tomales Beach. Tomales Beach is not part of Tomales Bay State Park -- it is on national park land on the bay side of Point Reyes, between Marshall Beach and the elk reserve, well north of the state park. The beach is accessible only by kayak. Here's a map of places on Tomales Bay where boat-in camping is permitted.

How great that Point Reyes provides so many opportunities for boat-in and hike-in camping. What a shame there is no car camping anywhere on the peninsula. You used to be able to pitch a tent at a walk-in campground at Tomales Bay SP, but no more. I don't know why or when the state park campground closed, but the campsites are still there, tucked under a dense canopy of coast live oaks, mere steps from the parking lot (but unsigned and unadvertised in any way). Since the campground is unmaintained, before long ferns and huckleberry will grow over the wood picnic tables and the site markers will rot. With the state of California's economy, we'll probably never get to make use of the easiest camping on the Point Reyes peninsula.

SF city hike: Three alleys and a mountain

2009-04-27T13:36:00.000-07:00

View 3 alleys and a mountain in a larger map
I haven't had much time to hike in the bay area's distant lands lately -- my trail forays are usually short jaunts in parks and preserves close to the city. I'm finding a great deal of enjoyment and aerobic exercise however, trekking around city streets, alleys, and paths.

Mount Davidson is my favorite city hike, but a loop around SF's highest hill only takes around 15 minutes -- not enough cardio for true exercise. When I started combining Mount D's trails with pavement in surrounding neighborhoods to the south, I found an hour's worth of good exercise and enough city nature to temporarily satiate my hiking demons.

A good place to start is in the Sunnyside neighborhood, on Mangels Street near Gennessee Street. Parking is usually easy during the day, and a bus stop is close by at Monterey and Gennessee.

1) Begin on Mangels, heading west toward Ridgewood. The residential street rises gently to Ridgewood. Continue a few steps more, where Melrose doubles back, Mangels continues straight, and Brentwood ascends to the right. Turn onto Brentwood.
2) Walk one block on Brentwood to an intersection with Hazelwood. Turn right onto Hazelwood.
3) One short block uphill leads to a junction with Los Palmos. Look across the street to a set of ascending steps -- the number 698 is painted onto the wall just to the right of them.
4) Begin walking up the steps, on Globe Alley (first photo). This feels like someone's private walkway, but the public path climbs between lots, bordered by many planted natives, including beeplant, scorpionweed, coyote brush, and lizardtail. The stairs give way to an ascending sidewalk, the alley shifts to dirt, then steps return. The final stretch of alley shares a paved driveway until it ends at Cresta Vista Drive. Turn right.
5) The street climbs some more, and through breaks in the houses on the right, look south toward San Bruno Mountain. Some of these houses along Cresta Vista are supported by stilts and meet the earth only at the edge of the street. The houses on the left side creep up the hill in levels. Cresta Vista reaches a high point and then begins to descend. When you reach an intersection with Coventry Court, turn left.
6) This little one block street quickly climbs to a dead end. Look for signed Coventry Lane (second photo) at the end of the block. Climb along the narrow paved alley which squeezes past fenced houses to the next junction, with Myra Way. Turn left and follow Myra uphill past the bus stop, with Mount Davidson visible on the right. At the intersection of Myra, Lansdale, and Dalewood, continue to the right on Dalewood.
7) A few houses down the street, look for the gated entrance to a fire road. Turn right.
8) The wide dirt fire road immediately enters a dense forest of eucalyptus and Monterey pine. Ignore an initial path climbing off to the right, and continue to a junction just before the fire road bends right. Here a path ascends on steps toward the mountain top, on the right, but instead turn left.
9) The narrow dirt trail descends gently through the forest where you might see northern flickers and woodpeckers, as well as chickadees and sparrows. More than once I've spotted Steller's jays here. Sharp-eyed hikers might see owls (which I've heard but never seen) bushtits, and hummingbirds. When the trail forks stay to the right.
10) Climbing gently, the trail (third photo) weaves through trees, red elderberry, and blackberry, until it steps out into coastal scrub. Views emerge and stretch to include most of the city to the north and east. The trail is squeezed here by dense shrubs of huckleberry, with other natives mixed through. As the trail bends right, the shrubs thin and grassland takes over. Keep maneuvering around the hill, ignoring any ascending or descending paths. Some sections are rocky and require careful footfalls. In spring, look for goldenfields, patches of iris, and checkerblooms. After the trail squeezes past a tall chain link fence on the left, ascend to a junction. Here a path climbs to the right, toward the summit (an optional add-on, not described here), but instead turn left. The wide dirt trail drops back into the forest then ends at the bus stop and intersection of Myra, Lansdale, and Dalewood. Turn left and retrace your steps back to the junction of Conventry and Cresta Vista.
11) Turn left onto Crest Vista. The road drops sharply to a T junction with Bella Vista. Turn right.
12) The vacant rocky hillside on the right here is dotted with fennel. After one block, turn right onto Burlwood. After one long winding block, Burlwood ends at Los Palmos. Turn left.
13) Just before 499 Los Palmos, look for a descending path on the right. This junction is marked by an old city emergency-type red callbox. Turn right, onto Lulu Alley (fourth photo).
13) The descent is on steep steps and sharply sloping pavement between houses and yards. The alley ends at Melrose -- turn right.
14) After a few houses, Melrose ends at a junction with Mangels. Turn left and return to your car (or extend your walk to the bus stop).

I haven't yet walked this route with a gps, so exact mileage is unknown. It takes me a little less than an hour, and I estimate the elevation gain is about 500 feet.

There are some incredible old photos and more information about the history of Miraloma Park here.

Lodging near great local hiking spots

2009-04-22T08:29:00.000-07:00

I know summer is approaching when rental RVs hit the local roads, fog rolls into town, and my inbox fills with emails asking for hiking advice.

I received an intriguing note yesterday from a midwesterner planning a trip.
Arriving to the bay area in late spring without camping gear, this couple would love to find a non-touristy cabin to rent in the bay area, from which they could day hike for 4-5 days.

There are many wonderful camping options in the bay area, but not so many cabins that are both close to trailheads and secluded enough for a peaceful respite at the end of the day.

Their best bet may be to rent a home or room at Point Reyes.
http://www.ptreyes.com/ is a good place to start when researching lodging options. The area has quite a few bed and breakfasts and some small motels. Most would require a drive to trailheads, but I found this place, Holly Tree Inn's Vision Cottage on Mount Vision, which looks to be within walking distance to quite a few trailheads (including Sky, pictured here) and is located in a quiet part of Point Reyes.

A tent cabin at Big Basin Redwoods State Park would be a great starting point for a long weekend of hiking, however, the cabins are clustered together, so it's not a good option if they're looking for privacy.

The West Point Inn on Mount Tamalpais (here's a photo from the area near the inn) fills just about every requirement for our prospective visitors, but it's small and fills quickly.

Costanoa offers tent cabins and very nice rooms, but there is only one trailhead in the immediate (walking distance) area; they would have to drive the other days.

Some other bed and breakfasts if other options don't work out:
Pelican Inn and Mountain Home Inn.

Any other ideas?

Sonoma Mountain summit preserved

2009-04-13T13:32:00.000-07:00

Jack London State Park stretches west from the outskirts of Glen Ellen, ascending the eastern slopes of Sonoma Mountain. Until recently the mountain summit was out of reach to the public, but a new purchase by the Sonoma Land Trust, the Sonoma County Agricultural Preservation and Open Space District, and the California Coastal Conservancy will change that. The $9.95 million deal adds just 283 acres to the existing state park lands, but they are critical acres that will prevent ridgetop development and enable a future trail connection to Fairfield Osborn Preserve, east of Cotati.

Views from the top of Sonoma Mountain are said to stretch all the way to San Francisco. The last time I visited Jack London State Park I hiked through the southwestern park of the park and even from the relatively modest elevations on the Sonoma Ridge Trail, the wine country views are incredible, particularly northeast to Mt. St. Helena.

Read about the land purchase here and about hiking at Jack London State Park here and here. If you've never been to Jack London State Park, this would be the perfect time to check it out; wildflowers are approaching the spring peak. If you want to get as close to the summit as possible, take Mountain Trail all the way to the (not for long) park boundary, in the northwest corner of the park.

Andy Goldsworthy's Spire in the Presidio

2009-03-30T10:34:00.000-07:00

My favorite artist these days is Andy Goldsworthy -- I love enjoying art and the great outdoors at the same time, and I can't think of anyone who combines the two with Goldsworthy's imagination, skill, and beauty. This British artist has a new art installation, the Spire, in San Francisco's Presidio.

The Spire is an assemblage of bare cypress tree trunks, rising from the earth to a point like an ancient skyscraper. These cypress were culled from the surrounding Presidio forest -- they were cut down due to disease or death, and Goldsworthy was inspired to, well, build a spire from them.

This installation is a very brief stroll from the Inspiration Point trailhead. From the parking area, walk on the side of Arguello toward the golf course, about 400 feet. Then cross at the crosswalk and continue on a wide nearly flat path a short distance to the spire. Here's a map (pdf) and more info.

How they count

2009-02-25T13:32:00.000-08:00

2008 National Park visitation statistics were released last week.

"Visitation statics for 2008 are out. Overall, there were approximately 275 million visits Servicewide, about the same as last year. Since 1916, there have been 11.7 billion visits to the National Park System.

The top ten most visited areas in the NPS last year were:

Blue Ridge Parkway – 16,309,307
Golden Gate National Recreation Area – 14,554,750
Gateway National Recreation Area – 9,431,021
Great Smoky Mountains National Park – 9,044,010
Lake Mead National Recreation Area – 7,601,863
George Washington Memorial Parkway – 7,009,630
Natchez Trace Parkway – 5,747,235
Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area – 5,127,074
Lincoln Memorial – 4,678,861
Cape Cod National Seashore – 4,644,235

The ten most visited national parks were:

Great Smoky Mountains NP – 9,044,010
Grand Canyon NP – 4,425,314
Yosemite NP – 3,431,514
Olympic NP – 3,081,451
Yellowstone NP – 3,066,580
Cuyahoga Valley NP – 2,828,233
Rocky Mountain NP – 2,757,390
Zion NP – 2,690,154
Grand Teton NP – 2,485,987
Acadia NP – 2,075,857"

(from http://home.nps.gov/applications/morningreport/morningreportold.cfm)

Not a lot of surprises on the list, but it got me wondering how the good folks at the park service determine these figures. After only a few keystrokes, I found this URL: http://www.nature.nps.gov/stats/index.cfm, a goldmine of NPS stats.

One could wander these pages for quite some time -- there's a ton of interesting info, including how NPS determines the number of recreation visits for each park or area. Here's the page for Point Reyes:
http://www.nature.nps.gov/stats/CountingInstructions/PORECI1994.pdf,
revealing that pneumatic tube traffic counters are placed at:
visitor center
entrance lane to Limantour Road
entrance lane to Five Brooks
entrance lane to Palomarin
entrance lane to Pierce Point Road
entrance lane to Sir Francis Drake (I'm guessing that means at the Pierce Point/SFD split)

In addition, visitation to Bolinas Ridge, Commonweal, and Tocaloma is determined by trailhead vehicle count.

The traffic count is multiplied by the persons-per-vehicle (PPV) multiplier of 2 for all the above except the visitor center, Pierce Point Road, and Sir Francis Drake, all of which get a PPV of 4. An estimatation of non-recreation visitor vehicles is then subtracted.

Similar information seems to available for all the NPS sites (I didn't check them all), with additional visitation comments such as dates a park was closed due to weather, malfunctioning pneumatic tubes, and even when counting equipment is stolen.

While I was poking through the stats I looked up the 2008 visitor counts for some of my favorite California national parks, and here's how they stacked up:
GGNRA 14,554,750
Point Reyes 2,248,203
Joshua Tree 1,392,446
Sequoia 930,011
Death Valley 871,938
Muir Woods 838,292
Kings Canyon 574,870
Redwood 396,899
Lassen 377,361

Definitely some surprises. Joshua Tree's visits are nearly double Death Valley, and Lassen, wow, that's a low figure.

Here's a photo from one of my favorite California national park campsites. Anyone know where it is?

Bay Area budget-friendly hikes

2009-02-09T13:36:00.000-08:00

With the economy suffering and folks losing their jobs, just about everyone is looking for money saving ideas. While hiking is just about free, there are costs associated with it -- most notably gas, bridge tolls, and day-use fees. So it makes good sense to consider each potential hike for recreation and monetary value. For example, I would think twice about making a day trip to Wilder Ranch. This state park just a bit north of Santa Cruz is about 120 miles round trip from San Francisco and the day use fee is a whooping $8 -- altogether too much money.

Here are some budget ideas to ponder when you want to hike as inexpensively as possible.

1) Stay in the City. Two weeks out of the month, hike in town. Mount Davidson, Lands End, and the Presidio are best bets for 2-3 mile hikes and you can reach all these trailheads by Muni or park for free at the trailheads. No, you won't have the same wilderness experience as Big Basin or Tomales Point, but you can hike some very pleasant easy trails without leaving town.
2) Take the bus. A round trip to Point Reyes from San Francisco via Golden Gate Transit and West Marin Stagecoach starts at $12. Or try a San Mateo County park accessible by bus such as San Pedro Valley Park.
3) Look for free trailheads. While I am a firm believer in always paying day use fees (our parks need the money), fees are often avoidable. At Mount Tamalpais, park for free at Mountain Home or Rock Spring instead of paying at Pantoll. You can park for free along the side of the road outside the parking lots at Samuel P. Taylor and Castle Rock. Just be sure to park legally and obey all posted requirements -- gamble for one of these premium parking spots by arriving as early as possible in the morning.
4) Go south and not very far. Bridge tolls make hiking trips north and east spendy. Instead, drive down the peninsula about 40 minutes to a free trailhead such as Purisima Creek Redwoods Open Space Preserve, Edgewood Park and Preserve, or Windy Hill Open Space Preserve.
5) Splurge occasionally. It's worth every penny to travel to Mount Diablo, Henry Coe, Castle Rock, and Sugarloaf. Consider car pooling with hiking buddies to save gas money and trailhead fees.
6) Get a parks pass. San Mateo County Parks pass is $60; California State Parks pass is $125. These passes are a big hunk of change, but use them regularly and save money in the long run. Consider asking for passes for birthday or holidays gifts.

Hiking is still a great bargain. You don't need fancy clothes or even boots. Don't let a light wallet keep you from hitting the trail.

Hiking with a 3 year old

2008-12-06T10:35:00.001-08:00

Our son Jack will be 3 in a few weeks, and suddenly he's become quite excited about hiking. So we've ditched the backpack and started hitting the bay area trails.

Each time we hike together I learn something new about what works and what doesn't. Here are some thoughts:
1) Don't go too far. I'm not willing to drive more than an hour each way with a boy who is just barely potty trained. In practical terms that means I won't cross the Bay Bridge because we ALWAYS get stuck in traffic coming home. Heading north to Marin is possible, but with an hour driving limit we won't get much further than Tam. The peninsula is our best option right now. Point Reyes, Big Basin, Castle Rock, and Mount Diablo will have to wait.
2) Keep it short. We're having great luck with hikes close to 2 miles in length. I always have to remember that if Jack is too tired to hike, I'll be carrying him.
3) Pick a quiet park or preserve. I do not want to dodge mountain bikes or horses or crowds on the busiest trails.
4) Choose the right kind of trail. While the whole family adores singletrack trails through woods and coastal scrub, these aren't best for us. Very narrow trails aren't wide enough to accommodate 2 hikers walking hand in hand, which is essential when we are hiking on trails with a drop-off on one side or that are very steep. It's also essential to be able to see a good distance in front and behind us, because quite often Jack will plop down on the trail to play with leaves or rocks or heffalump traps, and when he does this I need to make sure a bicycle (or mountain lion) doesn't come barreling down the trail and run into us. Hiking-only trails eliminate the possibility of bikes and horses, but wide fire roads through open grassy landscapes work best.
5) Pack snacks and talk about where we'll stop for a snack break. I try to choose trails with benches or someplace to sit along the trail. This also gives us something to work towards, and that helps us keep moving.
6) Be flexible and patient. Sometimes Jack's tired or maybe just doesn't want to hike very far. Tired or not, he stops and spells out each trail sign. I have to be willing to ditch the plan, improvise on the fly, and let him experience our hike in a way that is fun for him.
7) Hydrate!
8) Keep it comfy. Yesterday near the end of our hike Jack complained that his jeans were hurting his legs. Just like his mommy -- I don't find jeans comfortable at all for hiking. Does REI sell technical pants for toddlers? We'll see; in the meantime he'll hike in sweatpants. Make sure his shoes are fitting properly too.
9) Potty talk. Jack's not very willing to use the bathrooms at most of the parks for some reason. I've learned that he has the capacity to hold it for some time. But if he does need to go on the trail, I'll be sure to teach him the best way to pee in the woods. Don't forget the hand sanitizer!
10) Stay on the trail. This isn't a huge issue some places, but many trails are lined with poison oak. Besides, it's good to establish hiking etiquette early.
11) Consider the canines. Jack is somewhat unsure about dogs. He likes them but he doesn't like it when their owners allow their 4-pawed friends to lick or jump up on him. So we'll probably steer clear of places where there are lots of dogs, like Fort Funston, and most of the "western" East Bay parks like Tilden (except nature area) and Redwood.
12) Tick check! I will always check him when we get home to make sure ticks haven't come along for the ride.

Here are 10 destinations we'll return to or explore together in the next few months:
1) Saddle Trail, San Bruno County and State Park. The park is only about 10 minutes from our house. It has a wonderful grassy picnic area, easy parking and bathrooms on site. Wide Saddle Trail sweeps through grassland at an easy grade, and there are very good views of San Francisco and the bay. The whole loop is too long for us right now, but we hike to a bench, have a snack, and then turn around.
2) Valley View or Waterfall loop, San Pedro Valley Park. San Pedro is such a pretty park, and we love that we reliably see animals each time -- deer, hummingbirds, and rabbits are all common. These are singletrack trails, but bicycles are (for the most part) successfully banned, and it's only 20 minutes from our house.
3) Arastradero Preserve. Mostly grassland, Arastradero is easy to get to and easy to hike, with fairly flat trails. We will have to watch out for cyclists.
4) Windy Hill Open Space Preserve. At the edge of Portola Valley, Windy Hill is a huge preserve, but we'll stick close to the trailhead on a 1.6 mile loop around Sausal Pond.
5) Edgewood Park and Preserve. I love this place, but I'm worried about the poison oak on Sylvan Trail. Maybe we'll stick to fire roads here.
6) Sweeney Ridge. Very quick to get to and a wide fire road climbs to the ridge, but there are lots of cyclists and the trail does get pretty steep on the way up.
7) Tennessee Valley, Marin Headlands. It's 4 miles out and back to the beach, but the trail is so flat that I won't mind carrying him a bit if I have to. And the beach at the halfway point is a perfect place for lunch.
8) Gravity Car Grade to Mesa Station, Mount Tamalpais. The Mountain Home trailhead may be at the outer limit for driving time, and there will be quite a few cyclists, but the landscape is pretty open and the trail is a very easy grade.
9) Hawk Hill, Marin Headlands. Nice views, birds, short out and back.
10) Tilden Nature Area. Worth braving the Bay Bridge. A great place to hike (especially Lower Pack Rat to Jewel Lake) and Little Farm is right there. No dogs are allowed in this part of the park.

James Hetfield's new metal project

2008-08-18T18:29:00.000-07:00

Interesting article in the Marin Independent Journal -- James Hetfield of Metallica fame (or one of his minions) has erected a fence barrier blocking access at Terra Linda/Sleepy Hollow Divide Open Space Preserve, in San Rafael.

http://www.marinij.com/marinnews/ci_10233894

If my memory is correct, this is the boundary (photo from 2002).

Here's the write-up I did about this preserve:
http://www.bahiker.com/northbayhikes/tlshdnorth.html

Honestly, this sort of behavior sounds more like Lars than James....

Upcoming construction on Mount Davidson

2008-08-15T14:39:00.000-07:00

Mount Davidson is my favorite easy city escape. Most people know the peak for its distinctive large white cross and SF views, but for me it is a little nature oasis in the middle of this busy city. On our frequent family hikes around the mountain we see hawks, hummingbirds, and many songbirds. A few times I've spotted banana slugs and garter snakes and heard a great horned owl. One year the blackberry bushes provided enough sweet fruit to make blackberry jelly as family Christmas gifts.

Much to my dismay, the mountain is about to be torn asunder by a water pipeline project. Starting on August 18, several of the mountain's most scenic and heavily used trails will be closed, including the ascending paths from La Bica and the bus stop. The project looks to climb from the bus stop to the viewpoint, then drop back down through the woods to exit at La Bica. I am thankful that this project may spare the "native treasures" trail on the north slope of the mountain, but large swaths of forest are tagged and destined to be mangled, and it appears that the graceful eucalyptus near the lower viewpoint will be cut down. Ah, the price of progress and clean water.

What pockets of "everyday" bay area nature have you lost?

Bears, again

2008-08-12T08:58:00.000-07:00

Local hikers have allegedly spotted a bear in the bay area: read Tom Stienstra's article here: http://tinyurl.com/5c542a

"The stunning encounter took place in Rancho San Antonio, located near the border of Los Altos Hills and Cupertino. The hikers, a senior couple, said they saw the bear cross the Rogue Valley Trail, about a third of a mile east of the park's pond, according to Bob Power and Mino Freund, who reported the episode.

This is one of the park's most popular trails for hiking and jogging. The sighting took place at about 7 p.m., Freund said."

The last bear sightings, in 2003, occurred in Marin County, on Mount Tamalpais and Point Reyes. I was always a bit dubious about the Tam sightings, but the Point Reyes sighting seemed legit. This time around I am even more skeptical; the closest bear population to Los Altos is most likely waaaaay south (maybe Monterey County?) and from there to Los Altos is a great distance for a bear to travel. But it seems the sighting would be easy to prove or disprove -- hire a tracker and have him search for tracks. I wonder if there are any amateur trackers out at Rancho right now, combing the chaparral....

"The Cactus Eaters" by Dan White

2008-08-08T06:57:00.000-07:00

Tom Managan mentioned "The Cactus Eaters" on his blog recently and I had to have it. I love trail memoirs but am often disappointed by them. Many seem to follow a boilerplate: naive hiker sets out, gets blisters, feels discouraged, pack is too heavy, things get better, bear, weird trail characters, rain, enlightening moment, endorphins, ice cream, hurray here's the end of the trail. One book that really rose above the genre is the late great Colin Fletcher's "The Thousand Mile Summer," published in 1964. Dan White's memoir doesn't equal Fletcher's, but it's quite good.

I think the secret to a successful memoir is simple: honesty. When writers dodge the dark nasty secrets at the pit of their souls the books don't work. A memoir should not serve to make the author look noble or superior. You have to strip all the bullshit away and tell the truth, even if it makes you look bad. And Dan White's book feels very true.

White set off to hike the Pacific Crest Trail with his girlfriend. Both were unprepared and overburdened with stuff in every sense of the word. "Cactus Eaters" chronicles White's physical and mental journeys in a style that is never just for laughs, although it would have been easy to go that route (like Bill Bryson's "Walk in the Woods"). I enjoyed reading White's descriptions of hiking and camping, as well as trail and town characters, but my favorite part was following White's struggle with himself. The subtitle of the book is: "How I lost my mind and almost found myself on the Pacific Crest Trail," and it's a compelling trip.

I don't want to spoil the story for anyone by revealing the ending, but I will say that the very last 2 pages of the book gave me the chills. White gives closure to his journey in a beautiful haunting way that brought to mind one of the final shots in Nicholas Roeg's 1971 movie "Walkabout," where a young woman daydreams about an incredible journey, knowing it's an experience she will never have again.

I highly recommend "Cactus Eaters" to backpackers, hikers, and folks who like a good outdoor memoir.

Dan White's website: http://www.cactuseaters.blogspot.com/

Bird books and more bird books

2008-08-01T06:42:00.000-07:00

I've been browsing the selection of bird guidebooks this morning on Amazon. Yikes, there are so many! I mostly rely on the Kaufman Guide (Field Guide to Birds of North America ISBN 0-618-57423-9), but I can't resist adding some new titles to my library (or at least to my Amazon wishlist). Any suggestions?

California camping this summer/autumn

2008-07-28T08:57:00.000-07:00

Before setting off on a camping trip anywhere in California, I always check weather and road conditions, which are particularly important in autumn when an early "winter" storm can close roads in the mountains and make campgrounds too soggy for a tent. This summer and autumn in our bone-dry state, I'm thinking that fire conditions (http://www.fire.ca.gov/index_incidents.php) will be even more important than roads or weather.

So far this spring and early summer we've had significant fires in the north and south of the bay area, and in forests near Big Sur, Redding, and Yosemite (just to name a few). Some of my favorite car camping destinations this time of year include remote sections of Plumas National Forest, Lassen National Forest, and the forests around Yosemite National Park. I feel uneasy planning a trip in any forest this summer or autumn, since it seems that no place is safe from fires.

So where to go? Maybe the safest bet would be someplace immediately on the coast, with easy access to a large paved road and few trees. That rules one of my favorites, Gold Bluffs Beach up in Prairie Creek Redwoods (too far from the road, too many trees).

Maybes:
Salt Point State Park
Van Damme State Park
MacKerricher State Park
Manchester State Park
Patrick's Point State Park

Any other ideas? How about a yurt in Oregon?

Checking out the newest trail at Pulgas Ridge

2008-07-26T20:22:00.000-07:00

I just love Pulgas Ridge Open Space Preserve. It's one of those places where the sum adds up to more than the parts -- if I look critically at aspects of this place, there's a lot to dislike (a location so close to roads and houses, lots of dogs on the trail), but somehow it all works.

Dusky-footed Woodrat Trail is the newest trail at Pulgas, and it is wonderful, with all my favorite features of Polly Geraci Trail, expanded and intensified. DFWT starts in the lower reaches of the preserve then climbs out of a canyon, mostly on switchbacks, through mixed woods to chaparral with sweeping views of the preserve, Edgewood just to the south, and the Santa Cruz Mountains to the west. For such a small preserve, Pulgas Ridge has a diverse assortment of plants and trees, and the high reaches of DFWT is lined with some of my favorite chaparral shrubs, including manzanita, chaparral pea, chamise, and toyon. I worried that traffic noise from 280 would be a problem, and there is one brief section of the trail that draws close to the road -- this segment is noisy, but it is short. All in all it's a great addition to the preserve, and really increases the loop options for hikers. I can't wait to go back for wildflowers in late winter and spring.

But wow, was it hot. I had forgotten what it's like to hike in summer heat.